Day 13 : Batote - Patni Top - Kud - Udhampur - Ramkote - DayalaChak - Madhopur - Pathankot - Mukerian - Jalandhar - Phagwara - Ludhiana - Chandigarh.
The longest riding day of my riding life.
Total for the day : 450 kms
Fuel : Rs 500/- ( 9.9 l)
Friday, February 29, 2008
Sonamarg Batote 25 June 2008
Day 12 : Sonamarg - Kulan - Gund - Kangan -Ganderbal - Srinagar - Avantipora - Khanagal, Anantnag - Qazigund - Jawah Tunnel - Banihal - Ramban - Batote.
Total for the day : 265 kms, maximum till now for the day in hills.
Night halt : Hotel Hill View
Fuel : Rs 200.
Plan for today is to touch Pathankot after crossing Srinagar.It should be more than 450kms.
Also plan to visit Hazratbal in Srinagar,before bypassing it for further journey. Tomorrow Atul
and Haider will leave towards Amritsar and I will move on 1A towards Chandigarh.
I should be in Chandigarh tomorrow,Thursday 26thJune evening. These days Baba Amarnath
route is open,so there is huge crowd on Sonamarg. This side the route it seems is the
smallest by walking. Just after Sonamarg,there are huge camps catering to yatris who have
come for Darshan.
The yatra goes by Panchtarni,if people want they can also go to Shashnag. The walk from
Sonamarg-Batal side is the shortest to cover both, Panchtarni and Amarnath cave.
The route from Pahalgam side is long and also goes through Shashnag. Last, there was
some protest in Srinagar and so downtown is very tense. A driver of Tempo traveller who lives
in Srinagar downtown told us here.
The police/army fired against protestors and so there had been a couple of deaths.
And so the ambiance is tense.
10:30 PM : So ,it was a bloody eventful day for us. Eventful I can say now,as it is over now
and by GOD almighty, nothing serious has happened to anyone badly.
We started early, around 8 from Sonamarg and thought of having tea and breakfast at
some dhaba. We stopped at the first dhaba below the tourist rest house where we were
staying for the night and had chai-paranthas.The guys serving the paranthas etc were
contiously saying, the road is closed ahead. Then after talking to guys it was clear that all the
vehicles that were going towards Baltal were stopped.
We enquired, and it looked like, the army had started the convoy of private vehicles all along
around 8 am. We thought we will reach where they would be and started on our. Moving ahead,
there were slow truck traffic in between and cars were also who kept criss crossing in between.
And even though we tried a lot, these guys are faster and so I got separated.
Crossed Kangan among all protesters. There were huge protests going on and in Kangan, I was
just saved, I kept riding just behind this state roadways bus and touch touch to the bus. Bus went
through the burning crowd. Some stones were being pelted, but the bus slowly went through
and they gave way, and behind that I also sneaked through.
Now I know, being on the bike is so risky in these situations. Then met these guys.
They were waiting just outside a petrol pump. Proceeded towards Gandherbal. As soon as we
were near the town, the police and CRPF were thin and the protesting crowd just in front of us
and had started beating and kicking the vehicles. We were badly few feet away. Unbelievably,a
lot of them were still kids, I think between 12-14yrs of age, but they had became a mob by then.
There were so many vehicles all over. But we had bikes,so we had taken a U turn immediately
and started over. Haider was first then Atul was in the fornt and I was behind him. By then cars,
taxis etc had also started taking U turn.
And what we were trying to go through was a narrow mud lane. On the left side of it was
a 7-8 feet deep rain water nullah. I was following Atul in between the returning cars, Suddenly
he stopped speaking to some car wala, trying to explain him the situation. I also had to stop
immediately behind him, was riding almost with touching mudguards. But the mud lane where I
was driving, had no space on the left side for my foot, and as soon as I braked, and tried to
put my left leg down, I went down and down.
And I see myself toppled over in that nullah, upside down. Similar to the last time, I had left
the bike this time also and jumped over. I also got fell over in that nullah and my head banged
against a huge boulder. I heard a huge bang and couldn't understand for a few seconds what it was.
Luckily, was wearing the helmet properly, didn't get hurt. The bike was upside down in the nullah,
the protesting crowd was just behind us. I was bellow there in the nullah. The water stream
wasn't huge,still I think around 2 ft or so of water wasd gushing down the slope.
These guys started trying trying to pull my bike over.I was trying to push it from behind. Two
more locals joined to help in pulling the bike over. By GOD's grace, we were able to pull the bike
and then i got myself upright on the road. Both of them had rushed to their respective bikes and
a local guy was struggling to keep the bike upright. He was lean and the bike is very heavy, almost
180+ kg the water in the whole luggage.
I came up and hold the bike, all were running away from the protesters. By GOD's grace,
I push the button and the bike started in the first click and i also started running away.
All this happened so quickly but that felt like a long time then.
Haider was trying to abuse Scorpio wallas who were almost trying to run us over while we
were pulling and pushing the bike out of that nullah.
We kept riding for a few kms, then CRPF guys held us and many yatris. We waited there
for almost 2hrs or so. Then they let us go, we started and reached Srinagar. There CRPF guys
were not letting people go towards the Hazratbal but Haider was firm, he had to go. So both of
us waited outside near Dal Lake near a shop while he left his bike and appearing like local, he
went on foot to the Dargah.
Almost took 45 min there and came back. There had been some shooting outside the
dargah. Phew, so much for the day.
We started again and reached Avantipura, stopped for lunch, called up home, Mom, am
happy to be alive. Then started again. The route was peaceful further. Crossed Jawahar tunel in
the evening and were at Kud at dusk. After that we rode for 2 and1/2hour in the hills in
the night and reached Batote.
We were just 12kms short of our revised target of Patnitop. Stayed over night at hotel Hill View.
Total for the day : 265 kms, maximum till now for the day in hills.
Night halt : Hotel Hill View
Fuel : Rs 200.
Mulbekh Sonamarg 23 June 2008
Day 11 : Mulbekh - Kargil - Drass - JoziLa - Baltal - Sonamarg.
Total for the day : 169 kms
Night Halt : JKTDC Guest House
I Can go solo riding. Just need to know the puncture thing and apart from that the normal bike
things. The cables are generally good. We need to have proper for brakes, chain links also.
Chain gets loose everyday, hill riding loosens it. The climb for Lamayuru was better that Gata
Loops, one is it was easy and second it wasn't that cold as it wasn't that high.
Anyway,Gandherbal had some shooting yesterday and three terrorist and one army man
went down. This Gandherbal is en-route to Srinagar when we approach it today.
Target for today is Sonamarg if things go fine or else may be move forward to Srinagar. Lets see.
It is the most fantastic location, we could have ever stayed. Gulmarg and Sonmarg and kashmir
is really the Swarg. Yeh Hindustan ki Jannat hai. I have taken lots of photos in both places.
Started from Mulbekh at good time, I think 8 after breakfast. Crossed Kargil . It is just any other
Indian town. Its just that it has become very famous after the 1999 war with Pakistan.Moreover,I
think this is almost 100% muslim populated town I have ever seen.
Although it didn't look like scary or so at all. But the friendly faces till Mulbekh have slightly
started to diminish now. We stopped at Drass, at the Kargil War Memorial.
The Tiger Hills are touch to the memorial and other battle zones are visible further.
The Border as the army man there told us, it only 10kms from the place we are standing that
sound scary. They told us about the Kargil war, India and Pak had a peace treaty, whereby both
countries would withdraw there men from border in winters as it turned to be severely cold.
Although it seems ,in 1998 Pak didn't do it that way and had started capturing parts on the
Indian territory.
This was for the first time reported by some locals, they said 'ki shayad koi terrorist aaye hain'.
A few army men were sent for them and they were all butchered. Then the battle started .
The battle lasted many months between May-Aug1999.
Also in the way yesterday , Gurudwara pathar Sahib was just after 25kms from Leh, we stopped
and spent some good time at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, and heard the complete story from one
fellow.
It is being maintained by army since 1962 and around 7-9 army men are always there to
manage it. They were serving hot tea and everyone was welcome to join for Langar always.
It felt good to visit Upar Waley ka darbar for first time in so many days.
And the jawans were also very friendly.
!0:30 pm:
Sonamarg, we are sleeping on the floor in dorimtory, lets see how it goes tomorrow.
Total for the day : 169 kms
Night Halt : JKTDC Guest House
Day 10: Leh Mulbekh
Monday, 23rd June 2008 : Leh - Pathar Saheb - Lamayuru - FotuLa - NamikaLa - Mulbekh.
Started from Leh pretty late, the target as all said wasn't tough for the day, Kargil, the most famous spot of the last fight India had seen.
Started from Leh around 9:30, First thing, got bike repaired - Thank God, she looks in good condition to ride back home now. Slowly we start,the route is fantastic. I almost ride alone for 150 kms because these guys are always ahead of me. But it was good I took photos liberally,at all places I wanted to. They were riding fast.
I am expecting these snaps to be my trip highlight. The climb of Lamayuru, the moon land, was fantastic. The bottom of valley was visible from the topmost point of climb. I felt these loops were far scary and higher than the famous Gata Loops.
Climb to Fotu-La was also good and so was Namika-La. Had lunch at Mulbekh around 6pm.
Then tried at Jammu And Kashmir tourism guest house. Stayed at Tourist Bunglow.
It is a good location.
Actually, today we started very late and stopped while we have plenty of sunlight left. A lot of sunlight and solo riding today. Enjoyed the day a lot.
Total for the day : 190 kms
Fuel : Rs 300/ - ( 5.5 l)
Night Halt : J & K tourist bunglow, Mulbekh.
Some photos for the day :
Started from Leh pretty late, the target as all said wasn't tough for the day, Kargil, the most famous spot of the last fight India had seen.
Started from Leh around 9:30, First thing, got bike repaired - Thank God, she looks in good condition to ride back home now. Slowly we start,the route is fantastic. I almost ride alone for 150 kms because these guys are always ahead of me. But it was good I took photos liberally,at all places I wanted to. They were riding fast.
I am expecting these snaps to be my trip highlight. The climb of Lamayuru, the moon land, was fantastic. The bottom of valley was visible from the topmost point of climb. I felt these loops were far scary and higher than the famous Gata Loops.
Climb to Fotu-La was also good and so was Namika-La. Had lunch at Mulbekh around 6pm.
Then tried at Jammu And Kashmir tourism guest house. Stayed at Tourist Bunglow.
It is a good location.
Actually, today we started very late and stopped while we have plenty of sunlight left. A lot of sunlight and solo riding today. Enjoyed the day a lot.
Total for the day : 190 kms
Fuel : Rs 300/ - ( 5.5 l)
Night Halt : J & K tourist bunglow, Mulbekh.
Some photos for the day :
Day 9 - Leh
Saturday, 22 June 2008: Leh - Thiksey - Karu - Hemis - K-Top half way - Leh.
This was a very much required rest day, although we didn't adhere to the complete rest day philosophy, still a better and brightly sunny day.
Both Atul and Haider to leave Leh early tomorrow on their way back via Srinagar. I intend to atlast do K-Top . Lets see if i can do it today, also i think we will have to go separately. Me going a day behind them may be. I don't want to do that although.
So,I tried to do K Top , but my bike was having major problems. The rear brake was almost gone and if you don't know how dangerous it is to ride on hills with only the front brake. Well, I don't need any medal neither am I gonna get any. So I climb down from midway, directly go to a bike mechanic. Get the rear brake toned properly. Now it actually feels too tight, but may be it is just my feel.
These guys have already been to Leh Palace and now I meet them near Shey Gompa. Later we go to Thiksey monastery. The day was leisurely spent.
One thing I would like to tell all, never get into the hands of travel agents for your permits. Or at least, not with smaller ones, who act like touts. My permit was actually, just my name added to an earlier permit of few people and taken a photocopy. I didn't like this at all and would mot recommend this to anyone.
Night 10:30 pm : Plan is to leave from Leh tomorrow morning.
Monday Leh-Kargil
Tuesday Kargil-Srinagar
Wednesday Srinagar-Pathankot
Thursday Pathankot-Chandigarh
Friday Chandigarh-Delhi
Total for the day : 106 kms
Some photos for the day :
Beautiful moment, colors captured just outside the town.
Wonderful Leh view point, I stopped around 4 kms ahead of it and then back tracked my route. Actually it was getting very risky on those heights with only front brake working.
Previous Home Next
This was a very much required rest day, although we didn't adhere to the complete rest day philosophy, still a better and brightly sunny day.
Both Atul and Haider to leave Leh early tomorrow on their way back via Srinagar. I intend to atlast do K-Top . Lets see if i can do it today, also i think we will have to go separately. Me going a day behind them may be. I don't want to do that although.
So,I tried to do K Top , but my bike was having major problems. The rear brake was almost gone and if you don't know how dangerous it is to ride on hills with only the front brake. Well, I don't need any medal neither am I gonna get any. So I climb down from midway, directly go to a bike mechanic. Get the rear brake toned properly. Now it actually feels too tight, but may be it is just my feel.
These guys have already been to Leh Palace and now I meet them near Shey Gompa. Later we go to Thiksey monastery. The day was leisurely spent.
One thing I would like to tell all, never get into the hands of travel agents for your permits. Or at least, not with smaller ones, who act like touts. My permit was actually, just my name added to an earlier permit of few people and taken a photocopy. I didn't like this at all and would mot recommend this to anyone.
Night 10:30 pm : Plan is to leave from Leh tomorrow morning.
Monday Leh-Kargil
Tuesday Kargil-Srinagar
Wednesday Srinagar-Pathankot
Thursday Pathankot-Chandigarh
Friday Chandigarh-Delhi
Total for the day : 106 kms
Some photos for the day :
Beautiful moment, colors captured just outside the town.
Wonderful Leh view point, I stopped around 4 kms ahead of it and then back tracked my route. Actually it was getting very risky on those heights with only front brake working.
Previous Home Next
Sarachu - Leh Day 8
Day 8 : Sarachu - Gata Loops - Nakeela - Lavhulung La - Pang - Moorey Plains - TangLang-La - Rumtse - Upshi - Leh.
Last night,we slept pretty early around 9:30-9:45. It was very very cool rather cold, I think almost zero , it was freezing, because there was snow just above the camp.
So,going to pee even was a problem as you have to get out of the bed,the warm quilt. Thanks god, we have taken an attached toilet deluxe tent.
I slept and woke up around midnight.Was completely fresh.Later,the whole night,I couldnot sleep because of the less oxygen levels in the air. The night was really bad.
Got up to the sound of bullets passing by the campsite. Some bulleteer group is riding past the campsite.
After getting ready,some breakfast we got ready into ride for Leh today. Some strange chakkar, some ajeeb headache, stomach upset, uneasiness etc had increased today. It is AMS I think, due to less oxygen.
I am not taking Diamox,rather trying to increase the water intake to compensate for the less oxygen.
So we left around 8, the initial few km were bad. Then made an entry into army register at Sarachu check point. This is Himachal and J&K border post. Now we are entering Jammu & Kashmir.
In the meantime,had water numerous times. The AMS I think was getting harder. My body was not listening to my mind, that all this is short lived. Every now and then, I would stop my bike and lie down in the middle of the road.
At Pang,it didn't look like going further is possible. More so when Tang Lang la is still to be crossed. T-La is more than 17500 ft high. Still got ready for it.
Atul has got good enthu and that does make the difference between this small group of three.
Went ahead into Moorey Plains, the unbelievable flat lands at 14000+ ft height. Ajeeb strange feelings enter in mind, heart. I feel very lonely today. Kept on going ahead, and then T-La. Both Atul and Haider are riding far ahead today, I guess may be I have not seen them for last 2-3 hours. Both of them had left as it was very very cold up there. They kept riding for low lying areas.
T-La (17582#), the temp was sub-zero. I clicked a couple of photographs and then literally fell down. Then asked a Safari wala to click 2-3 photos of mine so that I have some memory. But the place was magnificent. Army walas were feeding brave chilled souls with tea, biscuit.
The views were fantastic. And I wanted to have tea. But these guys were gone and I didn't want to be there for long all alone. It is unbelievable, but the height and loneliness creates such strange feelings in ming, that some times I used to be standing some place and crying just like that. Anyways, soon, started getting down. They were halted at Rumtse. We had some snacks there.
After Rumtse, it was a breeze till Upshi and then Leh and the altitude had gone down so has the AMS and we all were feeling better.
Reached Leh around Sun down, may be 7 pm or so. Feeling better now. I had felt like spending more time in Tang Lang La but couldn't.
Total for the day : 259 kms
Night Halt at : Zik Zik Guest House.
Some photographs for the day:
Early morning at Sarachu camps, all were up by 5, and sun light, wow what a warmth it was:
A moderate pass in between, Nakeela @ 15547 ft
The famous "Gata Loops"
Rear view :-)
Standing the heighest point from Manali to Leh @ 17500+ ft
World famous, Moorey plains, a flat land at 14000+ ft height.
Don't be a gama in the land of lama.
Halt at Pang, very high halt :-)
Last night,we slept pretty early around 9:30-9:45. It was very very cool rather cold, I think almost zero , it was freezing, because there was snow just above the camp.
So,going to pee even was a problem as you have to get out of the bed,the warm quilt. Thanks god, we have taken an attached toilet deluxe tent.
I slept and woke up around midnight.Was completely fresh.Later,the whole night,I couldnot sleep because of the less oxygen levels in the air. The night was really bad.
Got up to the sound of bullets passing by the campsite. Some bulleteer group is riding past the campsite.
After getting ready,some breakfast we got ready into ride for Leh today. Some strange chakkar, some ajeeb headache, stomach upset, uneasiness etc had increased today. It is AMS I think, due to less oxygen.
I am not taking Diamox,rather trying to increase the water intake to compensate for the less oxygen.
So we left around 8, the initial few km were bad. Then made an entry into army register at Sarachu check point. This is Himachal and J&K border post. Now we are entering Jammu & Kashmir.
In the meantime,had water numerous times. The AMS I think was getting harder. My body was not listening to my mind, that all this is short lived. Every now and then, I would stop my bike and lie down in the middle of the road.
At Pang,it didn't look like going further is possible. More so when Tang Lang la is still to be crossed. T-La is more than 17500 ft high. Still got ready for it.
Atul has got good enthu and that does make the difference between this small group of three.
Went ahead into Moorey Plains, the unbelievable flat lands at 14000+ ft height. Ajeeb strange feelings enter in mind, heart. I feel very lonely today. Kept on going ahead, and then T-La. Both Atul and Haider are riding far ahead today, I guess may be I have not seen them for last 2-3 hours. Both of them had left as it was very very cold up there. They kept riding for low lying areas.
T-La (17582#), the temp was sub-zero. I clicked a couple of photographs and then literally fell down. Then asked a Safari wala to click 2-3 photos of mine so that I have some memory. But the place was magnificent. Army walas were feeding brave chilled souls with tea, biscuit.
The views were fantastic. And I wanted to have tea. But these guys were gone and I didn't want to be there for long all alone. It is unbelievable, but the height and loneliness creates such strange feelings in ming, that some times I used to be standing some place and crying just like that. Anyways, soon, started getting down. They were halted at Rumtse. We had some snacks there.
After Rumtse, it was a breeze till Upshi and then Leh and the altitude had gone down so has the AMS and we all were feeling better.
Reached Leh around Sun down, may be 7 pm or so. Feeling better now. I had felt like spending more time in Tang Lang La but couldn't.
Total for the day : 259 kms
Night Halt at : Zik Zik Guest House.
Some photographs for the day:
Early morning at Sarachu camps, all were up by 5, and sun light, wow what a warmth it was:
A moderate pass in between, Nakeela @ 15547 ft
The famous "Gata Loops"
Rear view :-)
Standing the heighest point from Manali to Leh @ 17500+ ft
World famous, Moorey plains, a flat land at 14000+ ft height.
Don't be a gama in the land of lama.
Halt at Pang, very high halt :-)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)