Saturday, March 29, 2008

Banjar to Sissu - Day 6

Thursday, 19th June' 2008

Morning: So,we stayed in the Natures Lap Resort,fantastic place,no sound except the river flowing down the mountain.We had thought and planned for an early start.

And somehow before alarm goes of at 5, we woke up at 4:30 strange isn't. So after tea and initial hiccups we started I think around8:15 or so. A couple of views of the resort and nature around.

Around 10 kms we have gone and Haider is no where to be found, though the network is still working here but not able to contact him. We think he has left for Kullu already.

We reach Kullu and he calls up. He's at Bhuntar servicing his bike, would take a couple of hoours. We go ahead & get our bikes washed just before Manali. Later, I bought a 5 l can from Manali. Later Haider joined us there and we have lunch there in the late afternoon. While sitting there we heard the thumps and saw Dwaraka and team pass through.

We are already late ( around 2:15 pm) and Manali is still 19 kms from here. Phew, am a little perplexed about crossing Rohtang late in the evening, but Atul is confident and so we march through.

The day looked good, a little cloudy and we reached Rohtang Pass around 6 pm, very late. There were lots and lots of traffic and it was really tough navigating there. The muddy and slushy route was ready to make you fall there. And as it was getting late, I was ahead and was riding through the slushy roads first. And somehow in a hurry to cross the traffic and reach Rohtang pass, I crossed it without even being able to stop there and click photographs.

So, no stopping there, off we go, the target is Sissu. Around 4-5 kms from Rohtang is Gramphoo.You wouldn't know, there is nothing, except the board and a road cut going to Losar/Kaza.

Just as we crossed Rohtang pass, on the other side was nature's bliss. Unbelievably serene and beautiful.

We ride thorugh, Koksar was breeze. But I had a scare. I had my first fall there. Just navigating the curve while turning right, in front of me, there was a truck coming uphill and I just got slow and bham. Truck wala also smiled and stopped his truck, a fellow coming from the side helped me. Wasn't bad actually.

Koksar to Sissu is 15 kms, 4-5 kms is too good a road. After that the 10 kms stretch was the worst, I have rode on till date. 10 kms of loose small stones on the whole sand and dirt track.

The guest house location was the best among all our trip hotels, just out of the world. Take a peep of this view from the window, looks to me the best window in the world.


Night Halt : Trivani Guest House
Food + Lodging - Rs 600/=
Fuel : Rs 350/=
Trip : 186 kms for the day.


The resort and view from there:










Traffic jams at Rohtang Pass :






Starkly different other side of Rohtang :











Sissu outskirts in fading day light





Day 5: Pooh Ghayagi

Wednesday 18th June' 2008

We were not upto the mark, still started at 6 am from Pooh. Had tea at Spellow where the bullets crossed us. Then we crossed them back on the checkpost. And it did rain incessantly. Wear rain gear, remove it as it becomes hot, then again wear it.....this goes on.

We had thought of having lunch at Rampur, which is 160 kms from Pooh. But we rode well through the day through the rains as well and had lunch at Sainj ( 185 kms) from where we had to take the Kullu diversion.

Then, the Sainj to Aut state highway is fantastic, We had not expected that. :-) It kept raining all the time here and also we had the most fantastic views here. Valley's, people living there and looking at us strangely, kids waving all the way.

We finally started inching towards the Jalori pass. Just 6 kms before the pass, we stop, have many tea's and eat some. Bikes were also heated up. After almost half hour, I felt a little warm.

The last 6 kms was tough, more so as the visibility was also very very low. Still we reached there around 5 pm. This was good thing, so stopped there for almost an hour. Many cups of tea, eggs and photographs later, we started. The descent was the scariest I have seen in my life till now, although, this is the first pass of my life :-)

Finally staying at Nature's Lap Resort in Tehsil Ghayagi, Banjar, district Kullu which is aroung 10-12 kms from the pass.


Night Halt : Nature's Lap Resort, Ghayagi
Food + Lodging - Rs 850/=
Fuel : Rs 200/=
Trip : 250 kms for the day.

Some photographs for the day:












Day 4: BhawaNagar Pooh

Tuesday, 17th June 2008 :

2:50 PM - Om restaurant, Pooh Colony

We have had more than 100 kms after Bhawanagar. Till Powari, roads were hell, but we enjoyed it, the Tapri hydel electricity plant on Sutlej in between for 30-40 kms, I think, phew, what road it was.

Filled petrol of Rs 100/- at Powari, as it was rationed there, only Rs 100 petrol for bike and Rs 200 petrol for car. The check post people had also mentioned "Malling Nullah". And here at the restaurant in Pooh, the locals are also mentioning the same, just 3-4 kms after Nako, major land slides are happening and road is blocked for many days at Malling Nallah.

Ah, the only route towards Leh is blocked here.

Still kept on riding, and suddenly found our biker friends, en-route some 15 kms ahead of Pooh,whom we had seen in Shimla. We had never met them before then. And they said it " The road is closed ahead at Malling".

Discussed, thought over, no options actually, we returned to Pooh. Back to Tensingh's Om restaurant and hotel. It's a new hotel and freshly painted, so very clean and no flies or insects, etc. Good room and we settle down.

Plan to leave early at 5 am tomorrow. Want to cross Jalori pass now, to go via Manali route.

Let's see how it works.

Night Halt : Om Hotel - Tensingh
Food + Lodging - Rs 685/=

Trip : 140 kms for the day.

Route for the day : Bhawa Nagar - Tapri - Ribba - Pooh - Khab - Nako - Khab - Pooh.



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Some photos for the day:


Bhawanagar govt guest house we stayed in last night:



Posing on Kinnaur roads:


Sutlej river accompanies for 200+ kms never leaving roadside for a moment, the humungous flow sometimes so near the road level is so much distracting :



Posing with Sutlej backdrop



Red flag, where ever it used to be there, means landslide zone, wait till its gone or they clear it up



Suddenly after a urn , we saw this. It was making huge roar, huge and we just had to stop there. Pose, click and click for an hour or more, in front of the Kassang Nullah. Click on these photos to see the real Kassang :-)









Kassang going down in Sutlej









One of the mild water streams, Atul fell down in the middle of this one.



Me, crossing this stream, the water used to be bone chilling and used to fill in our boots in every crossing.







First views of snow capped mountains :





From inside of Om restaurant, where we had lunch. What a view from the restaurant, isn't?









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Simla BhawaNagar Day 3

Monday 16th June' 2008

Bad start for the day, late departure.

Delayed start from Shimla at 9:30 am. Slowly we reached Narkanda, after a lot of breaks. But the day today was a lot better, while yesterday were huge
rains and complete washout.
After Narkanda, we ripped through till Rampur-Busheher, and its a fantastic road. Sutlej river accompanies us all along this route and we get magnificent views all around. The "Neeras"
village is almost on the edge of the Sutlej river, beautiful.
Moving ahead in the evening, we thought of staying at Bhawanagar for the night. Somewhere I had read, that there are good places for night stay there. When we reached there, darkness had
started enveloping the small town. After couple of queries we came to know that the nearest place to stay would be Recong Peo, ah please no, its at least 45 kms from here, and we do not plan to ride these roads in the night.

By chance we met a govt employee, and he helped us stay in the Electricity board guest house; and what a location it was. Splendid. The food was great, the location, ambience was out of the world I know till date.

God's gift - we are in Kinnaur.

Plan for tomorrow : Wangtu-Tapri-Karcham-Powari-Ribba-Akpa-Morang-Jangi-Spello-Puh-Khab-Kah-Yangthang-Chango-Shailkaro-Sumdo-Hoorling-Lari-Tabo-Lusith-Kaza.

The change in height is going to be more than 2000 m. So, here we are sleeping with fan on and quilt wearing half T-shirt. But I think, we have to be prepared properly for the next 250 kms. Plan to hit Kaza tomorrow. Start early tomorrow.

HPSEB GH : Rs 300/=
Trip meter : 180 kms for the day.
Food : Rs 100/=
Fuel : Rs 400/=

Route today was : Chota Simla - Narkanda - Rampur-Bushehr - Neeras village - Jeori - Bhawa Nagar.